Der Einstieg in den 3D-Druck - Teil 5

In the fifth and last part for now I would like to conclude the issue OctoPrint and introduce plug-ins that I use with me. The plug-ins are part of optimizations during printing, but also to change the design of the GUI. In addition, I owe you one answer how to leveling the mesh bed in gcode activate. Finally, I would like to present some of my 3D prints.

to Part 1, Part 2, part 3, Part 4

Mesh bed leveling activate the gcode

in the fourth part the blog series I have indicated, as soon as the mesh bed leveling the 3D printer has done this also activate at any pressure at the start must. This must be done before the first printing line and happen at the beginning of gcode. In Cura open, see Configuration -> Settings the device settings from the printer and add the start G-code to the entry code 1, see figure 1.

Figure 1: The mesh bed leveling use

Figure 1: The mesh bed leveling use

M420 S1; Use Stored mesh bed leveling

Code 1: gcode to mesh bed leveling

If you look at Figure 1 more closely, you will notice that I have entered many more start G code, as only this one required line. This makes before printing various preparations, on the one hand determine the home position and a first line outside the pressure part drag to old filament to get out of the nozzle, see code. 2

; Start code Begin

G21; metric values

G90, absolute positioning

M82; set extruder to absolute mode

M107; start with the fan off

G92 E0; reset extruder

G28; Home all axes

M420 S1; Use Stored mesh bed leveling

G1 Z2.0 F3000; Move Z axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30; Draw the second line

G92 E0; reset extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000; Move Z axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0; Move over to prevent blob squish

G92 E0; zero the extruded length again

; Start code End

Code 2: Full Start G code of my printer

Partly the start G code has been already set by the printer profile, I therefore only've made modifications.

The comments behind the individual G codes should explain what happened. So I can see quickly what is part of the start code, I have set accordingly a mark for the beginning and end. Some of it I have from the repository by the developer Wiki knut sausage accepted.

PlugIns and useful Tabs by and for OctoPrint

As the introduction already written, OctoPrint provides the basis so that the 3D printer does its work. As in last part mentioned OctoPrint provides the necessary commands to the printer ready and also monitors the printer. If it comes to printing problems, the printer it and OctoPrint transmitted warns the user accordingly.

In the next step, I would like to introduce my plugins that I personally considered a sense for me. Please do not be wondering if my theme looks something differently below, as the standard layout, which is a purely cosmetic customization and does not change the function of Octoprint. In addition, the following list is of course expandable and, depending on your taste, you can install additional plugins.

I would like to start with the already existing tab "Printer Stats", see Figure 2.

Figure 2: Statistics from the printer

Figure 2: Statistics from the printer

As a fan of data, this tab is personally of the special interest to me. Here, the user sees how long has been printed how many times you have connected to the printer, whether prints have passed through or broken by a mistake and much more. Interesting is also the statistics of theoretical consumption, see Figure 3.

Figure 3: statistics on consumption

Figure 3: Statistics about consumption

The great is, you can output the data filtered through the filter function, see Figure 4. You have the choice whether it should be the current year or month, or quarterly after filters.

Figure 4: restrict statistics

Figure 4: Filtering of statistics

This allows you to determine the operating hours and also the print days when they have printed most. But filtering always takes a bit and requires a high CPU load, even in the current Octoprint version, it always comes to problems again and again.

Next, I would like to give you the first separately available plugin Arc welder introduce. To install this and also all other plugins, go to the top of the wrench and select the plugin manager. Here you can search for the desired plugin and also install, see Figure 5.

Figure 5: Installed Arc Welder

Figure 5: Installed ARC Welder

ARC welder is a super plugin to better print radii and curves. To do this, you have to understand how a 3D slicer program interprets curves, radii or circles in GCODE, see Figure 6 left side.

Figure 6: Difference Arc Welder before and after

Figure 6: Difference ARC Welder before and then, Source

Cura and all other 3D slicer programs divide such circles, radii or curves normally into many smaller partial segments. These are printed in most cases by straight pieces. But that's basically no clean rounding, but many small edges. Arc welder analyzes the GCODE and filters exactly these source code lines and revises this, see Figure 6 right side. ARC welder removes these sections and writes better gcode to get a clean rounding. This not only optimizes the print image, but also minimizes the size of the GCODE file considerably. Partly I had GCODE files from 5MB, which were only 4 MB after editing ARC welder. Although there are also such plugins for all common 3D slicer programs that take over, but I actually use OCTOPRINT ARC welder.

Figure 7: Adjust Arc Welder settings

Figure 7: Customizing ARC Welder Settings

Already in the default setting, Arc welder is good, but we can still make fine adjustments. This goes over the tab Arc welder, see Figure 7. A detailed documentation can be found under It's great as soon as you upload a GCODE file at Octoprint, ARC welder directly works and analyzes and modifies the GCODE even before you can print it.

The next plugin is called Top Temp And adds a temperature display at the upper bar of the Octoprint webgui. The display is at the same height as the menu bar and shows, if the printer is connected, the temperature of Hotend and Heatbed, see Figure 8.

Figure 8: Toptemp in the WebGUI

Figure 8: TopTemp in the Webgui

In my case, I have also added even the temperature of the Raspberry Pi CPU, which can be added in the settings under Top Temp. There is the tab Custom and a corresponding template for the CPU temperature. Directly after saving the CPU temperature is displayed. This helps especially early on whether my Druckerumhausung is warm to the external and built-in fan from the closet and Raspberry Pi needs to be turned on.

So I have created for my next plug the perfect reconciliation. this is GPIO Control and allows to use the GPIO connector strips from the Raspberry Pi. On the Web GUI of OctoPrint for a corresponding widget is applied, provided that appropriate connections are configured in the settings, see Figure. 9

Figure 9: The widget GPIO Control

Figure 9: The widget GPIO Control

As you have seen from previous blog posts, I have separate 12V lights on my printer installed and now installed the printer in a cabinet that can be aerated with a 12V PC fan. In order to simultaneously cool the Raspberry Pi effective, is still installed Pi housing a small 5V fan in Raspberry. These three components I can control via the GPIOs, the two first-mentioned components are supplied by a relay with 12V voltage, ie the GPIO used only controls the input from the relay. In the settings, the GPIO Control plug-in can be configured as shown in Figure 10th

Figure 10: Settings GPIO Control

Figure 10: Settings GPIO Control

You can select the icon, enter the function name, select the GPIO and configure whether high or low active should be switched. The default value can be also determined whether the GPIO should be on or off, so you are on the safe side.

Finally, a nice plug-in with the name Bed CooldownThat 5 minutes before the end of pressure, or reach the 90% mark, the heating disabled by Heatbed, it can be so cool slowly. This plug-in is purely for my convenience. Since the Heatbed is not switched off until the end of the pressure but a little earlier, I can quickly release the pressure from Heatbed.

Turning off the Heatbed is not really a problem as it does not substantially adversely affect the adhesion of the pressure. If you also want to have your prints quickly, you should take a closer look this plugin once.


In the five parts of this series, I have the subject presented to you 3D printing, meaningful modifications, optimization potential OctoPrint and useful plug-ins. Thus the basis for the maker scene is set. Now it is up to you as you go on with the knowledge and what you want to construct. To construct you need the appropriate software, and there is a wide choice here. Personally I use FUSION 360, but it is also tinkerCAD or other common 3D design programs that can generate an stl or 3MF file. For almost all 3D design programs is available online instructions or the good old-bound (pocket) book while (online) dealer.

As I develop my children because many projects for this, it stands to reason that most 3D prints are for my children. A current project is shown in Figure. 11

Figure 11: Tonie landscape

Figure 11: Tonie landscape

I designed for Tonie box and also for the Tonies corresponding wall brackets. Just for the charging station, center of the image, it will soon be upgraded to see even more the sparkle in the eyes of my children. That's all I want to date once not tell, because I am planning to have a corresponding blog post.

The moon, left in the picture, has been printed with fluorescent filament so that it seems to be slightly green in the evening, with a moon sticker being glued to the front. The sun is still made of wood, but here, too, there will be a printed update soon. In order to detect the dimensions, the moon has a diameter of 30cm, the sun just under 35cm.

I would like to thank you to have accompanied me at the small trip to 3D printing. I hope my learned helped them personally to deal with the topic 3D printing themselves, or even to buy their own 3D printer. Meaningful modifications exist for almost every printer, here I recommend

This and other projects can be found on GitHub

Basics softwareRaspberry pi


Jörn Weise

Jörn Weise

Hallo Herr Letner,
tatsächlich ist es so, dass ich die Konstruktion an meinem großen Tower mache (Fusion 360) und das Slicen über Cura vornehme. Die erstellte gcode-Datei transferiere ich dann zu OctoPrint und lasse darüber dann den Druck starten. Theoretisch wäre es möglich, über Cura auch den Drucker zu steuern, aber mein Tower zieht knapp 750W und der Pi eben nur 15W. Das ist ein großer Unterschied und spiegelt sich auch in der Stromrechnung dann wieder, den Drucker mal ausgenommen.
Wenn ich mal “schnell” was gucken will, mache ich das entweder über das Tablett oder über mein Handy, da bei beiden das Interface wunderbar funktioniert.

Hallo Herr Behm,
das freut mich zu hören, dass diese Artikel ihnen ein bisschen geholfen haben. Ich bin gerade dabei meine Konstruktionen auf hochzuladen bzw. dafür vorzubereiten. Damit können Sie Mond und Wolke einfach nachdrucken. Ich sage aber jetzt schon, insgesamt hat der Druck für alle Komponenten knapp 80h gedauert und es werden dann noch ein paar Materialien benötigt. Es ist aber ein super Weihnachtsgeschenk für die Kinder oder Enkel ^^

Gruß und bis zum nächsten Blog
Jörn Weise
für Az-Delivery

Dieter Behm

Dieter Behm

Hallo Herr Weise,

danke für diese informative Reise in die Welt der 3 D Drucker. Habe einiges gelernt und seid August bin ich auch Besitzer eines Ender 3 Pro. Ebenfalls danke für die Idee mit dem Tonie, dadurch kann ich bei meinem Enkel punkten.
Dieter Behm

Lentner Peter

Lentner Peter

Servus Jörn,

vielen Dank für diese fünf sehr ausführlichen und den weit gespannten Bogen im Artikel.
Wer diese fünf Artikel durcharbeitet und auch an bzw mit seinem Drucker umsetzt bekommt anschließend eins super Grundlage für seine Drucke.

In einem der Artikel hast Du geschrieben dass Du den RasPy einsetzt um Strom zu sparen da nicht der große Tower laufen muss. D.h. nach dem Erstellen der Druckdatei und dem transferieren auf den RasPy schaltest Du den PC aus und verbindest Dich mit eine Tablet auf den RasPy, den an diesem ist ja kein Monitor, Tastatur und Maus angeschlossen?

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